Dolpo Mustang Traverse Trek

Dolpo Mustang Traverse Trek Highlights

• Visit to Shey Gompa, one of the oldest monastery of the region
• Follow the route to Lo Manthang- the ancient kingdom of Lo
• Closer insight into the life of Bon Buddhists in Dolpo and Thakali people in Mustang
• Spend time around the Shey Phoksundo lake to breath its pristinity and the serene surrounding
• Opt for this trek in May and actively partake in the proceeding of the Tiji festival

The Upper Dolpo to Upper Mustang trek takes in two remote areas which until relatively recently were closed to outsiders. These areas are unlike any other in Nepal, and can be compared in landscape and culture to Tibet or Ladakh in India. Indeed Dolpo lies between the Tibetan Plateau and the Dhaulagiri mountain ranges.

This is a long (almost one month) and challenging trek. With most days spent at altitudes over 4,000m and some high passes over 5,000m a great deal of stamina and fitness is needed to complete this trek. It combines all the main points of Dolpo trekking, such as Phoksundo Lake; Shey Monastery; the Crystal Mountain; the Bon Po religion, and rare wildlife, such as the snow leopard, with the monasteries, stupas, people and history of the Forbidden Kingdom of Mustang.

Both areas are unforgiving and yet people have lived there for centuries, trading goods along ancient salt trails, working what little fertile land there is by planting potatoes and barley and being self-sufficient. Mustang only officially became part of Nepal in the 1950s and until a few years back had its own king. Mustang is part of the recent turbulent history of Tibet: freedom fighters set up camps in Mustang from which to attack the Chinese troops.

Starting in Dolpo, this trek passes through forests and remote villages to reach the clear, blue waters of Phoksundo Lake within the first few days. This lake was made famous, as indeed the whole of Dolpo was, in the Eric Valli film ‘Himalaya’. Shey Gompa is another famous landmark, and is often referred to as the spiritual heart of Dolpo. Situated at the base of the Crystal Mountain, it and the mountain attract hundreds of pilgrims each year.

Within Upper Mustang, Lo-Manthang is the walled capital of the Kingdom of Lo. Although no longer the official king (his throne was lost when Nepal became a Republic in 2008), King, or Gyelpo Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista, still commands the respect and regard of the locals. It is in Lo-Manthang that the famous 3 day Tiji Festival is held every May or June. It is also in Mustang that the ‘sky caves’ or the Jhong Cave is found. Some 50 m up a cliff face, the Jhong Cave is thought to be over 800 years old.

The Jhong Cave, which has five stories and 144 rooms, housed priceless wall paintings, centuries-old Tibetan Buddhist doctrine books, and human remains. It seems that there are hundreds of such caves in Upper Mustang, which appear to be dwellings of an ancient civilization. Set with the backdrop of the Annapurna mountains, Upper Mustang is a little explored yet unique place.

This trek is definitely something special, especially for those who are interested in fascinating anthropology, mountain wildlife, and stunning scenery and who have a taste for adventure and the necessary time and fitness level.

Dolpo Mustang Traverse Trek Itinerary

Day 1: Kathmandu to Nepalgunj (Flight) – Nepalganj

• Trek time:  50 minutes
• Elevation: 150 m / 492 ft
• Accommodation: Hotel

You will be collected from your hotel by your guide and taken to the domestic terminal at Tribhuvan International Airport where you board a flight to Nepalganj.

Nepalganj lies in the lowland area called the Terai and shares a border with India.  The culture in Nepalgunj is very different to what you will experience on this trek so take some time to explore some of the temples and bazaars that have a definite ‘Indian’ feel to them.

Over dinner your guide will brief you on what to expect over the next four weeks.

Overnight at Nepalgunj – hotel 

Highlights and Challenges

• Seeing the Himalaya mountains from the plane window.
• Entering a city so different from Kathmandu.
• Take a rickshaw ride perhaps.
• Nepalganj is a noisy city with so much hustle and bustle.

Day 2: Nepalgunj to Jhupal (Flight) to Dunai (Trek) – Dunai

• Trek time:  3 Hours
• Elevation: 2,850 m / 9,350 ft
• Accommodation:  Teahouse

After breakfast there is another trip to the airport to catch a flight to Jhupal in the mountains, high above the Terai.  When you arrive at Jhupal airport you will be introduced to your porters and other trek crew, and after a quick cup of tea, set off on the first leg of the trek.

 The trail ascends above the Thulo Bheri Valley, through fields of corn to the village of Kalagaunda.  It is an easy hike today; a good introduction to trek. Follow the Bheri River to Roop Ghar village, with its traditional water mill, and on to Dunai.

Overnight at Dunai – teahouse. 

Highlights and Challenges

• More fantastic views from the plane window.
• The start of your trek; and it is a gentle start.
• Leaving the amazing culture of Nepalgunj behind.

Day 3: Dunai to Ankhe – Ankhe

• Trek time:  6 Hours
• Elevation: 2,896 m / 9,501 ft
• Accommodation:  Teahouse

Continue through the Thulo Bheri Valley until you enter the Phoksundo River Valley today.  The trek starts with a steep climb when you leave Dunai.  There will be several ascents and descents – to get you used to hiking in the Himalayas! One of these ascents takes you to a ridge where there is a good view of Kagmara Peak, situated further up the valley 

Passing through the small villages of Dhera with its walnut groves, and Rahagaun with its gompa to the guardian of the village, Mastha.  you get a glimpse of local life. 

Hiking on, there is a canyon to descend where the forest is dense and chilly.  Then cross a river to reach your overnight accommodation.

Overnight at Ankhe  – teahouse.

Highlights and Challenges

• Entering the Phoksundo River Valley.
• Viewing Kagmara Peak from a high ridge.
• Being introduced to village life.
• There are plenty of ups and downs to negotiate on the trail
• The trail is becoming more rocky today.

Day 4: Ankhe to Renje – Renje

• Trek time:  6 Hours
• Elevation: 3,104 m / 10,183 ft
• Accommodation:  Teahouse

Today the trail is quite varied with forests, steep paths, cliffs, and rivers.  There are a couple of tricky spots on the trail such as a slippery stone staircase which descends to the river, and crossing roughly made bridges across the rivers and streams.

From today the altitude goes above 3,000 m / 9,842.5 ft so you need to start paying attention to your body for any changes relating to altitude. 

Overnight at Renje – teahouse.

Highlights and Challenges

•  For the first time feel like you are being challenged; with more to come!
• Enjoy the stunning countryside.
• Steep stone staircase which needs care to climb down.
• Rising altitude.

Day 5: Renje to Phoksundo Lake – Phoksundo Lake

• Trek time:  6 Hours
• Elevation: 3,612 m / 11,850 ft
• Accommodation:  camping

Enjoy your breakfast in the knowledge you are about to have a stunning day on the trek!

You may have seen Phoksundo Lake in the late 1990’s film by Eric Valli, ‘Himalaya’. Now see it for real.

You will come to the confluence of the Phoksundo and Pungmo rivers and cross a bridge to the west bank of Punmo Khola (river) and continue to a ridge which offers amazing views of Phoksundo Lake and a huge waterfall.   

When you come to the village of Ringmo, there are plenty of chortens (stupas) and mani walls (walls made of stones with Buddhist mantras carved into them) to mark this beautiful village with its stunning location. From the end of the village we can see Shey Phoksundo National Park and have our permits checked. 

Tonight you will camp near Phoksundo Lake, gaze up at the stars and at the turquoise waters and think ‘does life get any better than this?’

Overnight at Phoksundo Lake – camping.

Highlights and Challenges

• The stunning waters of the Phoksundo Lake.
• Entering Shey Phoksundo National Park.
• One of the largest waterfalls in the country. 

Day 6: Phoksundo Lake to Chunemba – Chunemba

• Trek time:  6 Hours
• Elevation: 3,639 m / 11,938 ft
• Accommodation:  camping

After breakfast prepared by your camp chef, continue along the rim of the lake, entering Inner Dolpo.  This is the trail you will see if you watch the film Himalaya where it is portrayed as a salt trail.   While you are on this trail, be careful of the narrow sections as you climb a ridge from where Norbung Kang (6,085 m / 19,963.9 ft) can be clearly seen.

Descend to the northern shore of the lake  then through a wide valley with views of Kanjirowa Himal, also a 6-thousander. Continue on through alpine junipers to Chunemba, known as Lakeside Camp.

When you reach the camp after this interesting but potentially tricky hike, hot tea and snacks will be waiting for you as the camp crew prepare dinner.

Overnight at Chenemba – camping.

Highlights and Challenges

• More fascinating views of this shining turquoise lake.
• Hear the guide explain about the film Himalaya, if you have not seen it.
• View Norbung Kang and Kanjirowa Himal, both over 6,000 m / 19,685 ft.
• The trail can be dangerous and narrow in places.
• Loose scree demands good balance and care.

Day 7: Chunemba to Snowfield Camp – Snowfield Camp

• Trek time:  7 Hours
• Elevation: 4,400 m / 14,435 ft
• Accommodation:  camping

Today you also come to a place made famous, not through a film, but this time through a book. Peter Mathiesson’s book The Snow Leopard gave the name Snowfields Camp to this area.   It may be interesting to read the book before you come for this trek.

Today the Phoksundo Valley narrows considerably with high rock walls surrounding you. There is a steep climb up through the valley to the campsite at Snowfields Camp. 

Overnight at Snowfields Camp – camping.

Highlights and Challenges

• Knowing you are in a place made famous by an author.
• Unique landscape of a narrow valley and high walls.
• Having risen considerably in height, take care with regards to altitude related illnesses.
• The weather can be unpredictable at these altitudes.

Day 8: Snowfield Camp to Shey Gompa – Shey Gompa

• Trek time:  6 Hours
• Elevation: 4,310 m / 14,140 ft
• Accommodation:  camping

This is a tough day but with so much reward!   Eat a hearty breakfast because the first couple of hours involve a strenuous climb to Kang La Pass  at 5,350 m / 17,552.4 ft.  From the top of the pass, which will be covered in prayer flags as is the norm in Nepal, there is a panorama of mountain peaks on show.

Then it’s downhill, steeply at first, then more gradually, to Shey Gompa.  The village itself has only a few houses, but the monastery attracts hundreds of pilgrims annually. One of the reasons the monastery is considered the heart of Dolpo is its proximity to the Crystal Mountain where pilgrims come to circumambulate around the full moon in July or August.

Overnight at Shey Gompa – camping.

Highlights and Challenges

• Shey Gompa is in itself very famous with its many red chortens.
• Crystal Mountain is also very famous for its location, on the confluence of two rivers, and being that mythology says it was constructed by a Tibetan, who arrived on the back of a flying snow lion to fight a mountain spirit.
• Climb the Kang La Pass  at 5,350 m / 17,552.4 ft. 
• The landscape is barren and forbidding yet somehow beautiful.
  

DO YOU WANT A REST DAY AT SHEY GOMPA?

Day 11: Marang to Dora Sumna – Dora Sumna

• Trek time:  6 Hours
• Elevation: 3,670 m / 12,040 ft
• Accommodation:  camping

• You continue today through this very remote area with its dry landscape and rocky trails. 

This is another very small village where the people, like most of Upper Dolpo, are closely related to Tibetans in lifestyle and culture.  They are mainly Buddhist as most people are in the region, but there is also a scattering of people who still practice Bon – a religion predating Buddhism. 

The people still follow a self-sufficient, semi-nomadic lifestyle and have limited access to education and healthcare, although this is changing slowly. 

Overnight at Dora Sumna – camping

Highlights and Challenges

• More interesting glimpses into a very different lifestyle than yours at home.
• Although you have come down in elevation the altitude is still high enough to leave you breathless at times.

Day 12: Dora Sumna to Misha Gaun – Misha Gaun

• Trek time:  5 Hours
• Elevation: 4,200 m / 13,779 ft
• Accommodation:  camping

Today you climb back up in altitude, so once again you should take care to stay hydrated and hike slowly

On this trek you will come to Yangju Gompa which is thought to be the oldest monastery in Dolpo at around 1,000 years old.  This monastery belongs to the Nyingma lineage, the oldest school of Tibetan Buddhism, which follows tantric practices and teachings.  Although a small monastery, it is home to beautiful murals depicting Buddha and deities and has many statues of deities inside.  On the outside, the gompa is surrounded by nine large chortens and twenty smaller ones.   This gompa is much visited by pilgrims yet is in a remote area where few foreign visitors go. 

Overnight at Misha Gaun – camping.

Highlights and Challenges

• The beautiful Yangjer Gompa.
• Learn something about the Nyingma lineage of Buddhism.·      
• You have risen again to a higher altitude, when extra care needs to be taken. 

Day 13: Misha Gaun to Shimen Gaun – Shimen Gaun

• Trek time:  6 Hours
• Elevation: 3,850 m / 12,631 ft
• Accommodation:  camping

Another good breakfast is required before heading out today because you are crossing the Muri La Pass at 5,030 m / 16,502.6 ft.  

Today, like most days on this wonderful trek, look out for wildlife who may live in the valley you are traveling through.  Some of the wildlife that live in this area are: blue sheep, musk deer, snow leopard, Himalayan fox, and wonderful birdlife.

Overnight at Shimen Gaun – camping.

Highlights and Challenges

• The sense of achievement crossing the pass at 5,030 m / 16,502.6 ft.  
• Encountering unique wildlife on the trail.

Day 14: Shimen Gaun to Tinje – Tinje

• Trek time:  6 Hours
• Elevation: 4,110 m / 13,484 ft
• Accommodation:  camping

Tinji is a larger village set within a wide valley.  Interestingly, Dolpo artist Tenzing Norbu Lama was born here. If you don’t know him, Google!  You will be getting the idea by now that Dolpo not only has ancient history, it has modern history as well; of artists, writers, filmmakers and actors.

It may be, but we are unsure, that there are some works of art, such as Thankas and painted handcrafted leather goods for sale here.  Drokpa, a non-profit organization, set up  training for villagers on hand painting and producing leather goods.

Overnight at Tinje – camping

Highlights and Challenges

• Childhood home to a wonderful artist.
• Possible handicrafts for sale. 

Day 15: Tinje to Rapka – Rapka

• Trek time:  6 Hours
• Elevation: 4,535 m / 14,878 ft
• Accommodation:  camping

Today you will follow the Panzang Khola (river) and pass an old, no longer in use, settlement.  After some time you will reach the confluence of the river and turn along the Kehen Kola around the halfway mark.    Then there is a canyon to hike through as you ascend and descend towards the Rapka plateau and your campsite for the night.

 Overnight at Rapka – camping.

Highlights and Challenges

• Seeing the confluence of two rivers.·      
• The ascents and descents, which can be hard on the body, especially the knees.

Day 16: Rapka to Charka – Charka

• Trek time:  7 Hours
• Elevation: 4,302 m / 14,114 ft
• Accommodation:  camping

Today we get the pleasure of seeing many yaks grazing on pastures and the spectacular view of the Dhaulagiri Massif. The trail starts off by hiking up the valley and across the Kehen Khola past a yak herder’s camp.  Following the Myantoku Khola you hit a wide floodplain where you have to cross many tributary rivers.

Hiking over the Chharka La Pass, Dhaulagiri is on display. This is a tough hike today as you descend then ascend several times over the valleys.  Finally, you enter the village of Charka with its narrow alleys and courtyards.

Overnight at Charka – camping. 

Highlights and Challenges

• Stunning views of the Dhaulagiri Massif.
• Yaks grazing on the hillsides.
• Interesting village of Charka with courtyards and alleys.
• Those ups and downs!

Day 17: Charka to Tulsi Khola – Tulsi Khola

• Trek time:  5 Hours
• Elevation: 4,935 m / 16,190 ft
• Accommodation:  camping

After breakfast it’s a downward path to reach the Tulsi Khola.  You will ascend and descend several times until you reach the campsite on the edge of the Tulsi Khola.

Overnight at Tulsi Khola – camping

Highlights and Challenges

• You are nearing the Kingdom of Lo.
• Those ascents and descents!

Day 18: Tulsi Khola to Nakhkem Khola – Nakhkem Khola

• Trek time:  5 Hours
• Elevation: 5,066 m / 16,620 ft
• Accommodation:  camping

You have risen in altitude again today and although your body will be used to the altitude by now, you need to still take good care.  Drink plenty, eat well and keep a steady, but not too fast pace on the trail.

However, the trail today is mainly flat and relatively straight forward walking.

Overnight at Nakhkem Khola – camping.

Highlights and Challenges

• A shorter day and a flatter trail to follow.
• The altitude.

Day 19: Nakhkem Khola to Kharka – Kharka

• Trek time:  6 Hours
• Elevation: 5,445 m / 17,864 ft
• Accommodation:  camping

The day starts off by ascending. There are  fabulous mountain views and views of nearby lakes.  This is a very scenic day on the trek.  Dhaulagiri is on full view.

Today is your last day in Dolpo.  But now comes a new area to explore – Mustang.

Overnight at Kharak – camping.

Highlights and Challenges

• The mountain views are spectacular.
• The altitude is still very high.
• Sadly, this is your last day in Dolpo.

Day 20: Kharka to Ghami Phedi – Ghami Phedi

• Trek time:  8 Hours
• Elevation: 3,680 m / 12,073 ft
• Accommodation:  camping

This is a challenging and long day where you have to cross Ghami Pass at 5,694 m / 18,681 ft. From the top of the pass you get great views into Upper Mustang. 

The trail is a bit tricky as it is not frequently used.  Do pay attention to your guide’s instructions.

Overnight at Ghami Phedi – camping.

Highlights and Challenges

• You have entered the Kingdom of Lo.
• One of the longest days and a high pass to cross.

Day 21: Ghami Phedi to Ghami – Ghami

• Trek time:  5 Hours
• Elevation: 3,520 m / 11,548 ft
• Accommodation:  camping

You will have noticed that Upper Mustang is still very much influenced by Tibetan culture as can be seen in Ghami village.  On the way you will cross the Ghami River several times, but the day is shorter and the altitude is lower.

Overnight at Ghami – camping. 

Highlights and Challenges

• The Tibetan influence prevails among the locals.
• Thankfully it’s a shorter day.

Day 22: Ghami to Marang – Marang

• Trek time:  6 Hours
• Elevation: 3,540 m / 11,614 ft
• Accommodation:  camping

Marang village is  home to Ghar Gompa where there are, reportedly, scriptures belonging to Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava), a Tibetan guru from several hundred years ago

Overnight at Marang – camping.

Highlights and Challenges

• Visit Ghar Gompa

Day 23: Marang to Lo Manthang – Lo Manthang

• Trek time:  6 Hours
• Elevation: 3,810 m / 12,500 ft
• Accommodation:  Teahouse

Today is another exciting day as you will arrive in Lo Manthang, the capital of the old Kingdom of Lo, and of Upper Mustang. 

As you leave Marang, vegetation falls away and the  landscape  looks very similar to that in Tibet – dry and desert-like.   There is a mountain pass to cross today – the Marang La Pass at 4,230 m / 13,878 ft.  It’s a tough crossing but the views from the top are astounding.  You will see several mountains including Annapurna I, Dhaulagiri, Nilgiri, Tilicho and Bhrikuti.

Descending into Lo Manthang be prepared for a cultural experience in this interesting wall-city. The walls are earthen with four magnificent gates, and walking around the walls gives you a glimpse into the past. You can also enter the old palace with its courtyards and temples and visit the many monasteries and gompas.  

One of the most exciting times to come to Lo Manthang is during the Tiji Festival held around May (lunar calendar applies so dates vary year to year). This festival celebrates the reincarnation of Buddha as Dorje Sonom and his triumph over evil.  Colorful costumes, music and dance over a three day period is what you can expect. 

Overnight in Lo Manthang – teahouse.

Highlights and Challenges

• Entering Lo Manthang is like stepping back in time.
• The unique earthen walls of the ancient city are worth taking a closer look at.
• The stunning mountain views you will see today.
• Crossing a high  pass is always both exhilarating and demanding at altitude.

Day 24: Day Trip to Jhong Cave

• Trek time:  6 Hours
• Accommodation:  Teahouse

Today is another exciting day as you visit the ‘Sky Caves’.  It is still a mystery as to what exactly these caves were for.  They are man-made and reached by a series of ladders.  In the past, sky caves were used around the world to bury the dead, and there is evidence this may have been one of the purposes here as bones from the 3^rd to 8^th centuries were found inside.

It is also believed the caves were used during the wars and conflicts between Mustang and Tibet  in the distant past.  Whatever the reason, this is a very interesting place to visit and spend time climbing between the different chambers.  The addition of artifacts only happened in recent times after the caves became a place attracting many visitors.

After returning from the caves, there is time to explore more of Lo Manthang.

Overnight at Lo Manthang – teahouse.

Highlights and Challenges

• Visiting the Jhong Cave and pondering its use.
• Climbing up 50m to enter the cave and exploring inside.
• The landscape of dry high cliffs and its lunar appearance.
• Be careful climbing the ladders in the caves.

Day 25: Lo Manthang to Yara Gaun – Yara Gaun

• Trek time:  6 Hours
• Elevation: 3,900 m / 12,795 ft
• Accommodation:  Teahouse

Sadly, it’s time to leave Lo Manthang and its extremely interesting past behind as you head to Yara Gaun.

There are two passes to cross and a canyon to go through to reach a small settlement called Dhi.  From there, the trail takes you along a riverbed to your overnight accommodation at Yara Gaun. 

Overnight at Yara  Gaun – teahouse.

Day 26: Yara Gaun to Tange – Tange

• Trek time:  6 Hours
• Elevation: 3,240 m / 10,629 ft
• Accommodation:  teahouse

The trail starts with a steep ascent then flattens out a bit onto an exposed plateau.  Take care in the wind on this section but do remember to look up at the surrounding mountains. 

Tange sits near the Damodar river and if you look carefully you may be lucky enough to find some fossils here. Failing that, you will see them for sale in Pokhara!

Overnight at Tange – teahouse. 

Highlights and Challenges

• The impressive mountain views.
• Looking for fossils along the river.
• The high winds – a true feature of Mustang.

Day 27: Tange to Tetang – Tetang (also known as Chuksang)

• Trek time:  7 Hours
• Elevation: 3,040 m / 9,973 ft
• Accommodation:  teahouse

After breakfast set off on this long day with another pass to cross over.  The landscape continues to be of dry land with some cultivated crops.  The settlements still remind us of Tibet and there are some caves nearby if you feel up to a detour off the route.  Discuss with the guide.

From the top of the Pa Pass (4,100 m / 13,451.4 ft) there are amazing views of Dhaulagiri as well as of the Lo valley.  As usual, the top of the pass is marked with prayer flags. 

Overnight at  Tetang – teahouse.

Highlights and Challenges

• The views from the top of Pa Pass.
• The continuing wonderful Tibetan like villages and people.
• Another pass to cross.

Day 28: Tetang to Muktinath – Muktinath

• Trek time:  8 Hours
• Elevation: 3,700 m / 12,139 ft
• Accommodation:  teahouse

Another challenging day as you cross between Upper Mustang and Lower Mustang. Climb out of Tetang towards the Kali Gandaki Gorge (one of the deepest gorges in the world and source of all that wind!).  From Gyu La Pass there are fantastic views of the mountains but also heavy winds to be careful of.   Once you have passed this high point (4,677 m / 15,344.4 ft) the trail descends steeply into Muktinath. 

Overnight at Muktinath – teahouse.

Highlights and Challenges

• Overnight at Muktinath – teahouse.
• Crossing into Lower Mustang.
• The feel of the wind coming up the Kali Gandaki Gorge.
• Possible loose scree making the descent more challenging. 

Day 29: Muktinath to Jomsom – Jomsom

• Trek time:  6 Hours
• Elevation: 2,710 m / 8,891 ft
• Accommodation:  hotel

Muktinath is so very different from the culture and landscapes you have just left.  It is a Hindu pilgrimage town with sacred water spouts, ponds and an eternal flame.  Thousands of Hindu pilgrims from India and Nepal come here every year.

You can spend some time in the morning exploring the temple courtyard before heading off on your trek down to Jomson.

You will pass through the extremely interesting village of Kagbeni with its covered alleys and strange clay effigies. After the Hindu town of Muktinath, you are back to a Buddhist village. 

You could take lunch here and enjoy some different food to what you have had on the trek.  There is even a hotel called Yak Donald.   We haven’t eaten there but hear good reports!

Then it’s a short couple of hours of easy hike along a dry riverbed into Jomsom.

Entering Jomsom is also a bit of a shock to the system as it is a bustling market town with an airport and plenty of shops and hotels. 

Overnight at Jomsom – hotel.

Highlights and Challenges

• Exploring Muktinath.
• Exploring Kagbeni with its strange effigies of deities.
• Hiking along the river bed, perhaps finding another fossil.
• Entering the busy town of Jomsom.
• Seeing so many other trekkers in the hotel and lodges.

Day 30: Jomsom to Pokhara (Flight) to Kathmandu (Flight)

The flight from Jomson to Pokhara will be in the early morning.  You can enjoy the sight of the mountains on this short, 20 minute flight.  Arriving in Pokhara you have a little time to enjoy lunch by the lake or take a walk around the lake before heading to the airport again for your afternoon flight back to Kathmandu.  

Includes

Dolpo Mustang Traverse Trek Map

Location of the Upper Dolpo Mustang Trek

You start this trek by flying to the west of Nepal and then up into the northern region of Dolpo. Dolpo is the largest district of Nepal and one of the most remote and less-populated ones. Within the district lies the Shey Phoksundo National Park which is the only trans-Himalayan National Park in Nepal.  It is interesting to note that the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) worked extensively in this area to help protect the unique ecosystem and cultural heritage.

Leaving Dolpo, this trek takes you into Upper Mustang, which also has its roots in Tibetan culture and Buddhism.  Here lies the ancient Kingdom of Lo. 

Crossing over from Upper Mustang, you enter the much more tourist-populated area of Lower Mustang and on to the lakeside town of Pokhara.

A Day on the Upper Dolpo Mustang Trek

What a typical day on the trek looks like very much depends on your location on that day – this is such an interesting and varied trek!

For the majority of the time you will be sleeping under the stars in a camp put up by our fantastic camping crew, eating food by our wonderful camp chef. 

Breakfast will be prepared early and you will head off for the day’s adventure as the crew breaks camp.

Whether you are climbing over a mountain pass, or hiking through forests and along rivers, we guarantee the day is full of wonder and excitement.  There are Buddhist monasteries to visit, valleys to hike through, caves to climb into, legends to learn about, and local people to meet. 

Lunch is taken on the trail itself and hot tea and snacks will be waiting for you at the campsite as you unwind before dinner. 

If you are staying in a teahouse, then dinner and breakfast is taken in the teahouse, prepared by the lovely hosts.  Here you can purchase soft drinks and beer, if available.   Hot showers are available in the teahouses, and while camping they are available via a bucket and jug.

Required Experience for the Upper Dolpo to Upper Mustang Trek

This one month long adventure is only suitable for those with advanced trekking experience and a great level of physical fitness.  With its many high passes, trails constantly at high altitude, and remote conditions, it is a challenging trek.  Most of the trek involves camping at high elevations in extremely remote areas.   Prior camping and trekking experience is a must, as is proper trekking gear.  

If you would love to visit Dolpo, but are not experienced enough for this trek, we do have shorter trips which you may wish to explore. 

Physical Fitness – What You Need to Know

As mentioned, this is not a trek for beginners or even average trekkers.  This is a trek for those with extensive trekking experience at high altitude and preferably while camping.

Your level of fitness should be excellent and your stamina and perseverance above average!  This will ensure you have a great experience on the trek.

There are many high mountain passes to cross on this trek and an average day is around 6 to 7 hours of hiking.  You will be walking, and more importantly, sleeping, at altitudes over 3,500 m / 4,000 m  (11,482.9 ft / 13123.3 ft) most days. Sleeping and walking at such high altitudes is hard on the body, which is why we say you should be well-experienced in high altitude treks.

In order to combat any possibility of altitude related illness, we suggest you increase your fitness regime before you come and follow our guidelines on how to stay safe at altitude.  Stay hydrated, do not go too fast, be aware of your body, and always let your guide know if you feel unwell. 

To know more about altitude related illness, check here. 

What You Will See on This Trek – Highlights of the Best of the Best

This is a trek into a remote and beautiful corner of the country. It takes you into the stunning and challenging Dolpo region, on into Upper Mustang, equally as stunning and as culturally interesting, and out to Mustang, part of the main Annapurna trekking area. 

There is so much to see, so much to learn, and so much to know about the people, myths, landscapes, and mountains of this area it can be overwhelming.

Here are just some of the wonderful things you will experience. 

• The Culture: The people of Dolpo embrace Tibetan Buddhism as can be seen in their dress, architecture and every-day lifestyle.  You may witness some of their music and dance, depending on the time of your visit.  You will witness their art and architecture at any time. 
• Flora and Fauna: This is home to blue sheep, musk deer, and the Snow Leopard, among many more.  There are an abundance of rare and special herbs growing in this area which are used for healing purposes.
• Phoksundo Lake:  With its gorgeous turquoise water and precarious high trail round its edges, this is a major highlight of the trek.  As Nepal’s deepest lake it has been made famous in the film Himalaya (Caravan as called in Nepali theaters), which has led many more visitors to come here.
• Shey Phoksundo National Park: You will be traveling in the Shey Phoksundo National Park, a protected area full of rare wildlife.
• Shey Gompa and the Crystal Mountain: Another treasure to discover is the crystal quartz which makes this mountain shine.  It is revered by the Buddhist community, as is the famous Shey Gompa nearby. 
• Upper Mustang Restricted Area:  Upper Mustang lies close to the Tibetan border with a history of skirmishes, therefore it is considered a restricted area. And is equally as fascinating as Dolpo
• Legends and Myths: From flying snow lions to Sky Caves there are so many myths and legends in this area.  
• The Kingdom of Lo and the Walled City:  Lo Manthang is a unique walled city  which was home to the King of Lo from around the 14^th century until 2008. 
• Jhong Caves:  Why were caves built?  No one knows.  You will visit these caves built high up in the cliffs near Lo Manthang.
• Mountains:  You are high in the Himalayas when you are in Dolpo and Upper Mustang with superb mountain vistas all around you.  Among the mountains you will see are:

• Norbung
• Kanjirowa Hima
• Dhaulagiri
• Annapurna I and the rest of the Annapurna range
• Nilgiri
• Tilicho
• Bhrikuti
• Machhapuchhare (more commonly known as Fishtail)

• Mountain Passes: One of the things that make this a challenging trek is the number of passes you have to cross – pretty much one every two or three days!  Among these pass are:

• Kang La Pass  (5,350 m / 17,552.4 ft)
• Musi La Pass  (5,030 m / 16,502.6 ft) 
• Chharka La Pass (4,920 m / 16,140 ft)
• Ghami Pass  (5,694 m / 18,681 ft)
• Marang La Pass (4,230 m / 13,878 ft)
• Pa Pass (4,100 m / 13,451.4 ft)
• Gyu La Pass (4,677 m / 15,344.4 ft)

Places and People  of Interest on This Trek 

The Beautiful Phoksundo Lake

At an altitude  of 3,612 m / 11,850 ft, Phoksundo is not the highest lake in Nepal – that accolade belongs to Tilicho Lake at 4,919 m / 16,138 ft –  but it is perhaps the most stunning.

Its turquoise water and its location makes it a lake few people actually get to access, which makes it even more special. Until quite recently, only locals from Ringmo village, and traders would have known about this lake. 

Geological studies have found the lake was the result (note: this is just a theory) of a massive landslide 30-40,000 years ago.  Damming the valley, the landslide thus created the lake.  There is evidence that before the formation of the lake there was glacier influence in this area. 

Today it is a place many wish to visit.  It was particularly made famous by the Eric Valli film Caravan which highlighted local life in Dolpo in a fictional work which lies very close to reality.   However, since this is a difficult place to reach, only keen trekkers and adventurers can visit at present. 

Shey Phoksundo National Park

Shey Phoksundo National Park is one of 12 National Parks in Nepal and the largest at 3,555 square km.  The lowest elevation is 2,130 m / 6,988  ft   while at its highest it is 6,885 m / 22,588.5 ft.

With alpine forests, cold arid deserts, this park certainly has diverse topography.  It is in fact divided into Upper Dolpo and Lower Dolpo – the park sits within both districts, with Lower Dolpo having more human settlements due to its better environment for cultivating the land.

Shey Phoksundo’s climate is perfect for supporting unique vegetation such as herbs used in local medicines.  Unique too is its species of mammals including the Snow Leopard, blue sheep, and Himalayan Black Bear, among many more. 

The History of Lo

Lo Manthang was the capital of the Mustang Kingdom as it was then from the 14^th century.  At that time it controlled the salt route between Tibet, Nepal and India.  We can assume the walls were built to keep out unwanted people, animals and the harsh winds. 

Once Nepal as a country was formed (previously it was made up of many individual kingdoms), Lo Manthang became isolated due to its remote location.  This also meant they were able to protect their own culture, religion and traditions.  The King of Lo continued to reign until 2008 when Nepal became a republic and his reign was outlawed.  He still retained the great love and respect of the Mustangi people until his death in 2016.

The Importance of the Crystal Mountain and Shey Gompa

Sometimes referred to as the Kailash of Dolpo, the Crystal Mountain is located near Shey Gompa.  Shey Gompa itself is the most revered monastery in Dolpo and the Crystal Mountain also holds spiritual significance to Buddhists. 

The mountain’s name comes from the veins of quartz crystal on its base, which sparkle in the sunlight.   During the full moon in July/ August many pilgrims come to circumnavigate the mountain. At this time it is a happy occasion as women in their colorful aprons and men in their Tibetan attire do kora round the mountain.

Mythology tells that Shey Gompa was built when a follower of Buddha arrived on the back of a flying snow lion to fight  a fierce local mountain spirit. On the site of this battle Shey Gompa was built.   The village itself is very small and surrounded by red coloured chortens (stupas).

Artist Tenzing Norbu Lama

Tenzing Norbu Lama is an internationally  renowned artist with a 400 year old  family lineage of painters and who has had his work featured in National Geographics, Caravans of the Himalaya, and is the illustrator for four children’s books.

In 2001, Tenzin Norbu founded the Kula Mountain School in his native Panzang Valley, Dolpo, creating educational opportunities for the children of the remote region.

You can find copies of his stunning works, representing the Himalayas, in many shops in Thamel, Kathmandu or you can visit his studio in Boudha, Kathmandu

Camping Trek – Remote and Different

This trek would not be possible to do if you didn’t camp.  The area is so remote that at times there are no human settlements around other than perhaps yak herders’ huts and tiny villages. In this way, we can say this is an exploratory expedition into this wonderful wilderness.

Camping does not need to be uncomfortable – we will do our best to make sure you are comfortable in camp.  We provide you with a good tent, sleeping mat, and three meals a day plus an afternoon snack.  Hot water for showers can be provided, as well as boiled drinking water.  

Food While Camping

Breakfast, lunch, afternoon snack, and dinner are provided while camping.  Breakfast will be ready for you when you wake up, lunch will be taken on the trail, and dinner will be getting underway by the time you reach the camping spot.  Before dinner there will be an afternoon snack to keep you going after your hard walking.  Boiled water for drinking is also provided.

There is no electricity at the camp sites (which are just flat pieces of land, not organized campsites you might find in other countries), so cooking is done on a kerosene stove. 

Bringing some snacks of your own is a good idea.  Although meals will be filling and good, it is always nice to have something a little different at times.

Possible Menu While Camping

Breakfast may be porridge with bread (probably roti – a Nepali flat bread)

Lunch and dinner can be pasta, noodles, dal bhat (Nepali vegetable curry), pizza, etc.  

Afternoon snack may consist of fried potatoes and popcorn.

We will not buy meat on the trail but will bring some canned meat and canned tuna fish. However, most of the meals we serve are vegetarian, with a vegetarian option always available.

Tea/ coffee/ hot water is unlimited.  There will  be powdered milk for the tea/coffee as well as sugar.

We will not be carrying alcohol as we do not recommend its consumption at altitude and it’s just too bulky to carry anyway.  Unfortunately, no soft drinks either as they are also difficult to carry.

Drinking Water While Camping

The kitchen tent will provide you with boiled water for drinking.  If you come across a mountain spring, as long as you add purifying drops or tablets to it you can drink that water.  When in doubt ask the guide.  A Lifestraw is good to bring as it filters out some, not all, larger bacteria. 

What You Need to Bring for a Camping Trek

Take a look at our list of trekking equipment / gear.  This is what you need for trekking in Nepal.  But there are a few additional items you should bring on a camping trek.  These include:

• Clothing for the cold nights at high altitudes.
• Portable solar panel (one which hooks onto your day pack) to recharge equipment.
• Headtorch with batteries and extra batteries.
• Medicines – any you take regularly plus items such as headache tablets, stomach tablets etc.  And a small first aid kit.
• Four-season sleeping bag. This can be rented in Kathmandu.
• Toiletries in small, travel sized containers, and some clothes washing soap.
• Things for blisters and a few bandages in case of sprains.
• Nepali rupees in case there is something you wish to buy on the trek.  There will be limited places to spend money on this trek but there will be some overnight teahouse stays when you might want a beer or soft drink etc. And you need money for donations at monasteries.
• Your favorite snacks.

 Teahouse Accommodation

In a few of the settlements/ villages where there are teahouses (the name given to trekking lodges in Nepal) we chose to use them. 

In the more remote, less trekked areas, teahouses offer pretty simple accommodation consisting of sleeping rooms with two single beds. In the busier and more established areas such as Jomsom, there may be attached bathrooms with your sleeping room.  Otherwise the toilets are generally outside the main teahouse.  Not a problem for campers right!

The food in the teahouses is standard Nepali, Chinese, Tibetan fare with some Western items such as pasta, eggs, toast etc.  In the teahouses you will get breakfast and dinner. Lunch will be taken in smaller teahouses/ teashops along the trail. If there are no such lunch spots, you will be provided with a packed lunch. 

Teahouses in some areas will have WiFi access, hot water showers and charging points.  You will be expected to pay for these services.  

Before the Trek

Your First Days in Nepal

If you wish, we can meet you at the Tribhuvan International Airport on your arrival, saving you time and effort.  Just let us know on the booking form but please note there is a charge for pick up. 

Hotels in Kathmandu and Pokhara

Included in your trek are camping and teahouse stays. Also included is a hotel in Nepalgunj.   

Booking.com and hostelworld.com will give you a selection of hotels in Kathmandu.  In Kathmandu we suggest you stay in Thamel which is geared up for tourists with lively cafes, restaurants, bars and shops.

Explore Kathmandu:

Kathmandu is an ancient city with much of interest including seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites. If you wish, we can organize a half day or full day tour for you so you can see the most interesting places.  Highlights include: Boudhanath (Tibetan area), Swayambhunath (also a Buddhist stupa) and Pashupatinath (Hindu temples and ghats). There are also three Durbar Squares within the Kathmandu Valley.  These date back to when there were three kingdoms in what is now Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur.  

Visa for Nepal

Visa on arrival is available for people from most countries, via the Immigration Department of Nepal’s on-line site.   Complete the form, print it out and bring it with you.  Bring USD cash (exact money) to make payment on arrival at the airport. 

Visa on arrival is valid for 15 days, 30 days or 3 months and costs: 

• 15 Days – 30 USD
• 30 Days – 50 USD
• 90 Days – 125 USD

Trekking Permits You Need for this Trek

For the Upper Dolpo to Upper Mustang Trek you need the following permits.

Restricted Area Permit (RAP) for Upper Dolpo: – USD500 per person for 10 days.  USD50 per person per day for any additional days.

Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit – USD500 per person for 10 days. USD50 per day for any additional days.

Annapurna Conservation Area Permit – USD25 per person for the duration of the trek.   

Note: For the restricted area permit and the Nar Phu Valley Permit a minimum of two trekkers are required.  

We shall organize these permits for you.

Why You Need These Permits

The fees from these permits go back into conservation of the area, including cultural preservation.   It is also a way to keep track as to where trekkers are in the area – every time you go through a checkpoint it is noted down, which can be invaluable should you get lost between checkpoints.

Porters

Porters will be carrying the tents, kitchen equipment and food you will be using on the camping portion of this trek. They will also carry your pack.  As, certainly at the start of the trek, the porters will be carrying considerable equipment/ food, please try to keep your pack down in weight as much as possible.

Safety on the Trek

One of the main concerns is altitude related illness.  This is a high altitude trek where it is not easy to ‘sleep lower’ should you start to feel unwell.  Again, this is one reason we stress that to undertake this trek you should have prior high altitude trekking experience.

Having said that, you can mitigate the effects of altitude by being sensible and following a few given guidelines such as drinking enough water to stay well hydrated (even if it’s cold outside), going slowly, and taking lots of breaks. Our guides are trained in first aid and in recognising signs of altitude, so do not hesitate to inform them if you are feeling unwell.

As experienced trekkers, we do not need to tell you not to wander off alone.  Please let the guide know if you are wishing to go explore on your own at any time.  Always be aware of your surroundings in the mountains.

Tips for Safety on the Trek:

• Trekking poles, even if you do not usually use them, are a great asset in stabilizing yourself on risky trails.
• Do not go off on your own at the rest/ overnight stops. without telling your guide.
• Drink at least 4ltrs of water per day.
• It is important not to skip meals as you require the energy.
• Do tell your guide if you feel unwell; even slightly unwell. 
• Have the correct insurance.
• Wear the correct gear. Bring waterproof gear in case of rain or snowfall even when it’s not forecast.
• Bring your own regular medicines and a medical kit.
• Pay attention to the guide in tricky or dangerous areas.

Best Time to Come – Seasons

The best times to trek in Nepal are spring and autumn, and the same holds true for Dolpo.  As  Dolpo and Upper Mustang are  in the rain-shadow it is possible to trek in this area during the monsoon season. 

• Spring takes place during March to May.
• Monsoon takes place from June to the beginning of September.
• Autumn takes place from September to November.

Do keep in mind it will get very cold towards the end of autumn, in fact November might be getting difficult due to snowfall.   It is not possible to trek in this region during the winter months. 

Best Time to Come – Festivals

The Tiji Festival happens in Lo Manthang during May.  Definitely an interesting time to come!  Ask us about this.

Trekking in the Rain Shadow

Monsoon takes place in Nepal around the end of June until the beginning or middle of September. This makes most of the trekking routes difficult or impossible to access. Except for those in the rain shadow.

What rain shadow means is  that the area in question is shielded from the monsoon rains. In Dolpo and Upper Mustang  the Himalayas block the monsoon winds that bring rain.  With Dolpo on the windward side of the Himalayas, the wind brings dust and sand, not rain. As a result of this, less rain falls annually in both these districts, which is why they have a lunar-dry look.   

If you do decide to do this trek during the monsoon season, remember that you will be in Nepalgunj for a day, and then you will be in Lower Mustang/ Jomsom/ Pokhara for a day or so.  There will be rain there.  Additionally, flights may be impacted or canceled due to monsoon weather.

Expenses You Should Calculate For

Since this is mainly a camping trek, and with only a few settlements on the route, there really isn’t much to spend your money on.  The cost of the trek, food, accommodation (tents and teahouses) and guide has already been covered.  

If you are staying in  a teahouse then you may want to spend money on soft drinks, good coffee, pastries (okay so that’s really only in a very very few places) and snacks.   You will also have to pay for WiFi, hot showers and charging your electronics in teahouses. 

At monasteries it is normal to give a donation when visiting.  Around Nrs 150-500 as you wish.  Plus a bit more if you are lighting an oil lamp.

We can suggest you calculate how many days you are staying in a teahouse, and bring around USD10-15 per day for those days, and perhaps bring around USD5-10 for the other days – just in case!

What is Included and Not Included in the Cost of Your Trek

Transport: Four flights are included in the cost of your trek. 

Accommodation: Tented accommodation where indicated. Teahouse accommodation where indicated. Plus a hotel in Nepalgunj. 

Food: When camping you will get breakfast, lunch, dinner,  and afternoon snacks.  When staying in a teahouse you will get dinner and breakfast there and lunch will either be a packed lunch or from a smaller establishment on the trail.

Permits: The cost of the relevant permits are included in the cost of your trek. 

Tips: These are not included in the cost of your trek. Please calculate the tips for your guide, porters and camp chef.  Tips can be in Nepali rupees or other currencies.

Before you come expenses:  .

• Trekking / camping gear, good  trekking boots.
• Flight ticket, visa fee, and insurance.

Tipping the Guide and Porter

Carrying camping equipment over this rough terrain is tough! Keeping you safe and supported can also be hard work at times.  Please show your appreciation for your porters, guide, chef and camping crew by tipping them.  We at Magical Nepal do not deduct anything from our staff’s tips.  100% of your tips go to them.

We suggest the following:

• Tip the guide 10% of your trip cost. 
• For the camping gear porters  it is normal to tip around a total of USD150  for each porter and a total of USD200 for the chef.  
• The tips for the guide and crew members are divided by the number of trekkers on a trip So, the larger your group, the less you pay as an individual! 

Communication on the Trek

By telling friends and family you will be out of touch for the duration they will not worry.   Most definitely you will be out of touch for much of this one month trek. 

There is no WiFi in the small settlements you will pass on the trail, and phone networks may not work in some locations. Networks and WiFi are most likely available in Lo Manthang but we know the network in Upper Mustang is a bit unpredictable.

Bringing your own portable solar panel to charge your phone/ camera is worthwhile.  A local sim card can be bought at the international airport on arrival which will give you access to local data packages – when there is network availability.  

 Extend Your Trek

Normally it is possible to extend a trek in any given area.  However this is already a long and extremely hard trek so we can recommend you ‘extend’ in Pokhara!

Naturally, if you’re interested in visiting any other area of Nepal, such as for wildlife safari, meditation, rafting etc, you can talk to us about these trips. 

Staying on in Pokhara

This would be the ideal town to relax and chill after a month on the trail.  You can simply relax here by the beautiful Fewa Lake or do some adrenaline raising activities.  Here are a few ideas.

Suggestions for Pokhara:

• Hike to the Peace Stupa (for views of the lake)
• Explore Davi’s Falls (waterfall)
• Visit Mahendra Cave
• Visit the International Mountain Museum (history of mountaineering)
• Bundy jumping
• Zip lining
• Cable car ride (to Sarangkot for sunrise views)
• Boating on Fewa Lake
• Paragliding
• Partying at great live music venues and clubs
• Watching culture dances in lakeside restaurants.
• Or simply wandering along the lakeshore and dining in great restaurants.

Why Book with Magical Nepal

Diversity – Equality – Inclusion: Keys to a Great Experience

We at Magical Nepal are a team of highly trained travel enthusiasts.  

We started Magical Nepal in 2017 and pride ourselves in growing a great team. From our climbing guides, trek guides, and liaison staff to our camp staff, porters and camp chef, we all love to explore and travel in the Nepal Himalayas. We also love to introduce our beautiful country to our clients.

We are committed to human dignity, security, and safety for all – for our clients and for the communities we visit. We are also committed to the environmental sustainability of the landscapes, flora, and fauna of the Himalayas.

We also pride ourselves on offering great value for money and a price guarantee – if you can find the same trek at a lower price, we will match it – guaranteed.

Please check the reviews from our past clients to see what they say about us.

FAQs For Dolpo Mustang Traverse Trek:

Related Trip in Dolpo Region

Lower Dolpo Circuit Trek | Upper Dolpo Circuit Trek | Upper Dolpo to Rara Lake | Putha Hiunchuli Expedition