Putha Hiunchuli Expedition

Location of Putha Hiunchuli

Putha Hiunchuli at 7,246 m / 23,772 ft, is situated in the Dhaulagiri Himal in the district of Dolpo.  Dolpo being in the north-west region of Nepal.

Best Seasons Climb Putha Hiunchuli

 Spring and autumn are the climbing seasons in Nepal when the winds are less and the weather more reliable. There is also less chance of snowfall at these times.  We have a contingency day scheduled into this itinerary in case of bad weather.

Overall, we would say spring is the best time for this climb.

Experience and Physical Demands of  the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 

The whole expedition takes almost one month with around 17 days of  preparing at Base Camp and climbing.  This is not a climb for beginners. If you have Alpine PD+/ AD route experience (or have climbed Scottish Grade I/II winter routes) you will enjoy this climb confidently. 

Ideally, if you have climbed Lobuche East and Island Peak, Chulu West or Khumbu 3 Peak in Nepal or the likes of  Kilimanjaro or Mt Blanc, you are ready for Putha Hiunchuli.

For those who have this type of climbing experience, Putha Hiunchuli  is not an overly demanding climb. With our experienced climbing guide assisting you as required, and with the right previous experience, you can achieve this climb.  We do suggest, however, that you refresh your climbing skills before you come as there are some demanding and technical sections on the climb.

Being that Himlung is 7,246 m / 16,404 ft  high and that you will be sleeping at altitudes over 5,000 m / 16,404 ft  it is preferable that you have experienced high altitude before, as on the aforementioned mountains.   It takes over a week to trek to Base Camp.  Although that trek in is not arduous, there are a couple of acclimatization days built in to allow your body to adjust.

If you are planning on climbing an 8-thousander in the near future, climbing Putha Hiunchuli provides great experience and practice.

Physical Fitness – What You Need to Know

In a nutshell: this is a 7-thousanders.  It is the ideal mountain to get you prepared for tackling an 8-thousander.  Great fitness, great stamina and great enthusiasm and determination is required to summit this mountain.

If you are considering this climbing expedition you should have a great level of fitness and know what you have to do to increase / build on it before you come.

Questions Answered Before You Ask Them

• Yes, Putha Hiunchuli is among the 7-thousanders in Nepal. It is the last 7-thousander in the western section of the Dhaulagiri mountain range.
• Yes, you will need to have previous climbing experience for this expedition.
• Yes, our climbing guides are fully experienced.
• Yes, it will be a fully equipped Base Camp with all the necessary facilities.
• Yes, altitude related problems are real and are something to be aware of.  Our guides are trained in dealing with altitude problems and our expedition takes in acclimatization days in order to mitigate the possibility of illness. 
• Yes, we are ready if you require emergency evacuation while on this trip, the guide is knowledgeable about what to do in this situation. 
• Yes, there will be a satellite phone for emergencies.
• Yes, you need insurance to cover you on this climb and it should cover helicopter evacuation should it be necessary.
• Yes, we insure all our staff in case of accidents/ illness among them.
• And, yes, it’s an awesome climb!

Minimum Number of Climbers 

It is normal to have a minimum of two climbers for this expedition, for logistics and to obtain the permits.

Equipment

We have a general list of  trekking equipment/ gear you can look at here.

Additionally, for the climbing part of the expedition, we  will provide the group gear such as ropes, but please bring your own climbing equipment.  Equipment is available for rent or to buy in Kathmandu and this is something we can advise you on.

Basic list of climbing equipment:  

• Trekking equipment (a per our standard list)
• Climbing helmet
• Climbing boots
• Crampons
• Climbing harness
• Ascending device
• Descending device
• Ice axe
• Carabiners
• Prusik loop
• Tape sling
• Gloves
• Down jacket (can be hired in Kathmandu)
• Waterproof jacket and trousers
• Sunglasses

In addition:-

• Bring clothes that you can layer up as it will be extremely cold at higher altitudes but at lower elevations  during the trek in it may be warm.
• Pack light.
• Portable solar panel (one which hooks onto your day pack) to recharge equipment. We do not have a power source at base camp.
• Headtorch with batteries and extra batteries.
• Medicines – any you take regularly plus items such as headache tablets, stomach tablets etc.  And a small first aid kit.
• Four-season sleeping bag.
• Toiletries in small, travel sized containers.
• Snacks such as dried nuts and fruit, chocolate bars and power bars.

A Day on the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition

This expedition is basically broken down into two sections: trekking in and climbing.

You will be camping except for three nights where you stay in local teahouses (trekking lodges) and one night in a hotel in Nepalgunj.  In Kathmandu the night before and the night you fly back into Kathmandu are included.

A day on the trek:

You will be trekking for an average of 6 hours a day through forest, dry lands, rivers and pastures.  A real mix of biodiversity inside the Shey Phoksundo National Park which covers this area.  After breakfast the crew will break up the camp to establish it at the next overnight stop.  Lunch will be taken on the go (perhaps a packed one or from a small tea hut), and snacks will be available at the new campsite as dinner is being prepared.

A day on the climb:

At Base Camp staff will set up the tents – sleeping, dining, kitchen and toilet tents.

You will head up to each camp – there are three camps on this climb and return in rotation to Base Camp each night.  

Packaged ready meals will be made available to you on the climb.  Otherwise, our fantastic camping chef will prepare the meals at Base Camp.  Tea/ coffee and boiled drinking water are available as required.  You may want to bring some snacks from home –  a bit of comfort food.

Possible Menu at Camp Sites   

• Breakfast may be porridge with a freshly cooked flatbread / Nepali roti, or it may be dal bhat (that staple of Nepali diets).  
• Lunch and dinner can be pasta, noodles, Nepali vegetable curry and rice, pizza, dal soup, etc.  
• Snacks may consist of fried potatoes and popcorn.
• We will carry some canned meat and tuna fish for protein.   If you have a particular preference, let us know and we will try to accommodate. Vegetarian food is always available.
• Tea/ coffee/ hot water is unlimited at Base Camp.  There will  be powdered milk and sugar for the tea/coffee.

Food at the Higher Camps

At the higher camps the food will be reconstituted dried food / ready to eat meals. 

Drinking Water While Camping and in Teahouses

At the camp sites you will be provided with boiled water for drinking.    

Sterilizing water with drops or tablets at teahouses will make it drinkable.  Or you can buy boiled drinking water from them.

Teahouse Accommodation 

 You will only spend three nights in a teahouse.  Although they are quite basic, normally with shared toilet facilities, they may have hot water showers, electricity and WiFi.  All of which you will have to pay for (USD2-5 each, per time).

 Since you are going to be camping for a considerable time on this expedition, we feel you will be able to cope with the basic facilities of a Nepali trekking teahouse.

Overall, Nepali, Chinese, Tibetan and some western dishes such as eggs, toast and soups.

Typical Menus in Teahouses

• Tea and coffee are included in the breakfast and dinner. 
• Nepali tea or Tibetan butter tea, when it is available, coffee. Nescafe or similar.
• Soft drinks, beer and drinking water must be paid for yourself directly to the teahouse.

Safety

One of the main concerns is altitude related illness.  Take care to avoid altitude sickness by staying hydrated, not going too fast and taking acclimatization breaks.  By alerting your guide if you feel unwell, he can determine whether it is something related to altitude and needs to be taken very seriously, or something else.

The other safety concerns are accidents during the climb and getting lost on the mountain.

Do not go off alone.  Always tell the guide where you are going and when you expect to come back (in case you want to explore during acclimatization days). On the climb, pay close attention to the climbing guide.  You may be very experienced, but it is most likely he knows this particular mountain well.

Our climbing guide will be carrying a walkie-talkie/ satellite phone.

Tips for Safety on the Expedition:

• Do not go off on your own at the rest/ overnight stops without telling your guide.
• Drink at least 4 ltrs of water per day to stay hydrated.
• Eat – we all know you need more calories when climbing at altitude.
• Do tell your guide if you feel unwell. Even an upset stomach can impact on the safety of the team when on the mountain. 
• Have the correct insurance.
• Wear the correct gear.
• Bring your own regular medicines and a medical kit.
• Pay attention to the guide in tricky or dangerous areas. In particular, listen to the climbing guide.

Permits You Need for the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition  WHICH ONES

Climbing Permit  –  a climbing permit is required for any climb in Nepal.  These are issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA).  Cost depends on the season, the peak, and team size.

Restricted Area Permit (RAP) for Upper Dolpo:  USD 500 per person for 10 days.  USD50 per person per day for any additional days.

Restricted Area Permit (RAP) for Lower Dolpo: USD 20 per person for one week, US5 per day for an additional days.

Shey Phoksundo National Park Permit: USD 30 per person for the duration of your trek.

Why You Need These Permits

Climbing permits: A permit is required to climb any mountain in Nepal. 

Regulating climbing activities: climbing permits are required to allow the government to regulate climbing activities and ensure no one attempts to climb unprepared.  Permits must be issued through a registered Nepali company, such as Magical Nepal.

Protect the unique environment of the mountains and helps fund conservation efforts in the region. 

For your own safety  – when you apply for the permit, the route you are planning to take is noted, helping if there is any need for search and rescue.

The other permits go back into conservation of the biodiversity of the area.

Before the Expedition

Your First Days in Nepal  

If you would like us to meet you at the Tribhuvan International Airport and take you to your hotel, please let us know. It will save you a lot of hassle at the airport trying to organize taxis.

Hotels in Kathmandu:

There are a wide range of hotels and hostels in Kathmandu to suit everyone.  We suggest Thamel as a great place to stay as it is the tourist hotspot with many restaurants, bars, shops etc.  You can check on booking.com and hostelworld.com for a suitable hotel.  If you would like to stay nearby Thamel, but not exactly in it, then hotels such as the Radisson, Kathmandu Marriott, and Shankar are all within about 15 minutes’ walk of Thamel. 

BTW – our office is also in Thamel.

Please note, we provide you with a hotel in Kathmandu the night before the expedition and the night you return to Kathmandu. 

Explore Kathmandu:

If you would like to see something of the city before (or after) your expedition, we have a half or full day tour that might suit you.  Just ask us.

Kathmandu is a very interesting city although it’s a bit of a maze if you are trying to locate places yourself.

Visa on Arrival 

Visa on arrival is available for people from most countries, via the Immigration Department of Nepal’s on-line site.   Complete the form, print it out and bring it with you.  Bring USD cash (exact money) to make payment on arrival at the airport. 

 Visa on arrival is valid for 15 days, 30 days or 3 months and costs: 

15 Days – 30 USD

30 Days – 50 USD

90 Days – 125 USD

Landscape, Culture, and Wildlife You Will Experience on This Expedition 

Landscapes: You will be trekking through the remote and beautiful Dolpo region in the north west of the country.  Being that Dolpo is sheltered from monsoon rains, the land is dry and lunar like in places, with patches of cultivated land and forests.  The mountains that can be seen from this area include the  Dhaulagiri Himal,  Churen Himal and Kanjiroba Himal.

Peoples:  In this area the people are mainly followers of Tibetan Buddhism.  There are remains of old Khampa forts and settlements indicating people migrated from Kham in Tibet many centuries ago.  There is ancient and more recent history of trade along this salt route between Tibet, India and Nepal.

Wildlife: You might see small mammals  such as Himalayan Tahr (a wild goat), goral (another type of wild goat), pika (a rabbit like rodent), and Himalayan marmots as well as domesticated yaks and sheep.  Within this area are some unique mammals, which are shy and hard to see.  These include Himalayan Black Bear, Red Panda and the stunning Snow Leopard.   

Expenses You Should Calculate For

For clients on a regular trekking trip, we advise them to bring a certain amount of local currency to spend in the teahouses on the trail and for any souvenirs they might find in the larger market towns. 

But you are on a climbing expedition and as yet, we have not established any cafes at the top of Himalayan mountains!

But seriously, do bring a few rupees for those days you will be staying in teahouses as they charge for hot showers, charging equipment, and for WiFi access.  Plus, any soft or hard drinks, you consume.  Maybe bring around USD 12 a day on those days. 

You should give a donation to any gompa (monastery) you visit of around Rs150-500. 

Tipping the guide and porters is also something you need to carry money for.  Although you can give them foreign currency too. 

What is Included and Not Included in the Cost of Your Expedition 

Transport: Four domestic flights are included in the cost of the expedition. 

Climbing gear:   We will supply the basic group gear such as ropes.  It is expected that you will bring your own personal climbing gear.  Should you not have your own equipment, it can be hired when you arrive in Kathmandu.  Please discuss this with us. 

Accommodation: Tented accommodation is provided on the trail and at Base Camp.  Three nights in  teahouses are provided where indicated.  One night in a hotel in Nepalgunj is also included. In Kathmandu, we provide a hotel the night before the expedition, and the night after. 

Food: When you are camping you will get breakfast, lunch, dinner, and afternoon snacks made by our chef.  In teahouses you will get dinner and breakfast. Also included is lunch which may be a packed lunch or in a small eatery.   On the climb you will get special packet food. 

While tea and coffee are included at the teahouses, should you wish to have any soft drinks etc this is paid by yourself.

Tips: Tips for your guides and porters are not included in the trek.  Tips can be in Nepali rupees or other currencies.

Porters

The porters will carry your gear as well as the camping equipment and climbing gear.  Please be considerate when packing and bring only the essentials to keep the weight down.

Tipping the Guide, Camp Chef, and Porters

Porters are hired to carry the camping and climbing equipment and as you can imagine, this is extremely hard work. Your guide and/or climbing guide are there to keep you safe and secure as well as fixing the ropes etc. Please show your appreciation for your porters and guides by tipping them.

 And let’s not forget the chef, without whom we would soon turn round and head down the mountains to the nearest café!  

100% of your tips go to the staff.  We do not deduct anything from these hard working, deserving people.

We suggest the following tips:

The guide /  climbing guide is usually tipped around $250 – $300 on this type of expedition.   This is divided by the number of climbers on the expedition. On top of this, the climbing guide normally receives a summit bonus from us directly. Extra incentive to give you the best climbing experience possible!

 Porters should be tipped US150 each, divided by the number of climbers.

The chef should be tipped around US200.

Being generous is always appreciated, especially by the porters, whose work is more seasonal. Do remember you are also helping to support the staff’s families and communities, particularly the porters who are usually from the area they are working in.  In this case Dolpo.

Communication on the Expedition

• While on the mountain, it is unlikely there will be any signal for phone or internet. 
• Your guide will be carrying a satellite phone in case of emergencies.
• In order to charge your equipment, we suggest you bring a portable solar panel. 
• There will be WiFi and  electricity for charging at the teahouses you stay in at the beginning and end of the expedition.  You will be expected to pay for that (around USD2-5 per time).

Trip Extensions 

This expedition ends in Kathmandu but it does pass through Nepalgunj on the way back to Kathmandu.  

Should you like to visit Bardia National Park (2 hours drive from Nepalgunj) please let us know.

We can also arrange for you to hike/ climb/ visit other areas of Nepal.  Just ask us!

Why Book with Magical Nepal

Diversity – Equality – Inclusion: Keys to a Great Experience

 We at Magical Nepal are a team of highly trained travel enthusiasts.  

We started Magical Nepal in 2017 and pride ourselves in growing a great team. From our climbing guides, trek guides, and liaison staff to our camp staff, porters, and camp chefs, we all love to explore and travel in the Nepal Himalayas. We also love to introduce foreign clients to our beautiful country and mountains.

We are committed to human dignity, security, and safety for all – from our clients to the communities we visit.  We are also committed to the environmental sustainability of the landscapes, flora, and fauna of the Himalayas. 

Please check the reviews from our past clients to see for yourself.

We also pride ourselves on offering great value for money and a price guarantee – if you can find the same trek or expedition at a lower price, we will match it – guaranteed.